Russia 2019 (21) MOSCOW - Moscow by Daylight

As we continued around the city, we saw the entrance to Gorky Central Park of Culture and Leisure. It was founded 91 years ago and follows the Constuctivist style. In 2010 the park went through a major transformation moving toward being more eco-friendly. Its 300-acres run alongside the Moscow River. It is filled with extensive gardens and a 2-deck carousel. The park is free for all to enjoy.

The Red October Confectionery Factory, established 1851. The development has gone through several iterations and currently hosts art galleries and designer studios. It is known as Moscow's answer to New York's Tribeca.

The Bolshoi Theatre of Ballet and Opera was open on Tzar Alexander II's coronation day 20 October 1856, although the ballet company itself was established much earlier in 1776. It went through a major reconstruction in 2005-2011, which reinstated some of its historic features.

We whisked by the cold war Secret Service building, not used for that purpose these days.

Belorusski Train Station (green building), one of nine railway terminals in Moscow. It was opened in 1870 and reconstructed in current glory in 1912.

Can't identify this one, but one of the most beautiful buildings we saw.

A tour highlight was the Cathedral of Christ the Savior, built in honor of those that died in the Patriotic War of 1812. Unlike Saint Basil's, this is a working church with a capacity of 1,000+. It has an interesting history. The original structure took 40 years to build and was completed in 1879. In 1883, the world premier of the 1812 Overture by Tchaikovsky was held in the church.

During the atheist Soviet era of the early 1900s, the structure was destroyed with explosives. Stalin planned to build the world tallest skyscraper on the property, but his plan never came to fruition. In 1958, Nikita Khrushchev ordered the world's largest open air swimming pool to be built at the location. It had accommodated 10,000 people at a time, had hot water and was opened year round. The Moskva Pool remained open until 1994. Impressive photo at:
https://russiable.com/cathedral-christ-saviour-moscow/

By 1995 public support, including that of Yuri Gagarin, rallied for reconstruction of the church. It was built from scratch in the exact style of the original edifice. With completion in 2000, it is the seat of the church and the largest Russian Orthodox Church in the world. Currently, in Moscow alone there are over 300 Russian Orthodox churches.

Surrounding grounds are lovely.

As we continued the tour, we noticed details of art and honors throughout the city.

 

Last in this entry is the Peter the Great statue which stands along the Moscow River. It is 98 meters (321 feet) (8th tallest statue in the world), intricate, and beautiful. It was commissioned to honor 300 years of the Russian Navy founded by PtG, but it is also controversial. There is a "tug-of-war" between Moscovites and Saint Petersburgers (?), so locals are unhappy that this personality has taken such a prominent place in their city.

Russia 2019 (20) MOSCOW - Russian Architecture

Today was our last day in Moscow. We joined an excursion called "Panoramic Moscow." It was basically an overall city tour with a few highlighted stops. At one point we were on Tverskaya Street (or Leningradsky Lane), one of the oldest streets in Moscow. It is the prime radial street around the town and then continues northwest as the main highway to Saint Petersburg. By car that is 719 kilometers (447 miles) and 8 hours 9 minutes away.

Another interesting fact was the need for modernization in Moscow in the 19th century. Up to seven story buildings were lifted, placed on rails, and moved 20-30 meters (60-98 feet) back to make way for wider streets. These buildings were moved back.

Our guide described the two major Russian architecture styles of early 20th century Russia. First came Constructivist (or Leninist) architecture. It combined advanced technology and engineering with the Communist social purpose. Steel and glass structures in cubist block style. Straight lines, quality but sparse, industrial, practical are all words to describe it. Max height was about seven stories.

Here's Lenin. Not sure if this his one of his buildings (maybe too tall), but in his style.

Sometimes a little art deco was incorporated.

Stalinist Empire (or Social Classicist) is a style of building during the reign of Stalin. He preferred skyscrapers and monumental structures that represented the strength of the country. Lavish and imposing are words to describe his vision.

An example is Moscow University's main building with lots of levels and parapets. This is one of the "Seven Sister" buildings commissioned by the Stalinist government. Yep, imposing! Attending are 52,000 students in 50 departments, including English.

Here's another example in the background. It may be the Kotelnicheskaya Embankment Building (you saw the night view already) or the Hotel Ukraine (other "Sisters"). Leninist building in front.

Another Seven Sister was built to house ballerinas, composers, musicians, and other artists of the time. It looked similar.

I don't think I have seen so many huge structures in one city, tall with a gargantuan footprint. I can't imagine the internal utility structure. I'd hate to get the HVAC bill. Not sure what this building is, but a little of both styles--straight lines, steel and glass, but certainly monumental.

There are a few "current day modern" buildings. This example is pretty sci-fi. The complex is the Moscow University of Academy of Sciences. That was originally founded by Peter the Great. The complex here contains 1,008 scientific research institutes, including libraries, publishing houses, and hospitals. Way more info at: 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Russian_Academy_of_Sciences

Close-up of the tower top. There is a taller and shorter building with this topping. Their nickname is the Golden Brains.

This is a new business district with a very modern look. These were all built within the last 15 years. Twenty towers are planned.

We also passed by this Italian bistro...

and quaint coffee shop (?).

Russia 2019 (19) MOSCOW - Moscow by Moonlight

Back at home base, we found our ship had changed docking positions, with a fancier entrance this time.

After dinner we took our third tour of this full and fun day. From 21:00 til midnight, we experienced a Moscow by Night tour. The city is a whole different landscape after dark. To ward away the long harsh winter atmosphere (luckily not when we were there), designers have illuminated buildings, streets, and parks in a fairyland of colorful lights and light beams.

First stop was Victory Park and Square of the Victors on Poklonnaya Hill. It is one of the highest spots in Moscow at 171 meters (562 feet) elevation. In the 1960s, this area was rededicated in remembrance of the Patriotic War of 1812 when Russia thwarted a French invasion led by Napoleon at this location.

This huge sign ("Moscow" in Russian) welcomed us at one end. The clock says 22:57.

Then we strolled down a long, wide promenade almost to the other end. The first Soviet victory parade was held here under President Boris Yeltsin in 1995. The obelisk at the other end is 141 meters (562 feet), measuring 10 centimeters for each day the 1812 war was waged. It incorporates a statue of Saint George slaying the dragon, a heraldic emblem of Moscow.

The white building under the obelisk is a monumental museum (added in 1995). It is dedicated to WWII or the Great Patriotic War, as it is known in Russia. Among other things it contains books listing the names of 26 million Soviet people killed during that conflict.

Along the promenade tanks and other WWII vehicles are displayed as well as statues and monuments noting historical events and persons.

Fountains were lit red and looked more like flames than water.

Nearby is the New Triumphal Arch. The original (1847) was built in wood and rebuilt later (1927) in marble. Once again reconstructed and moved to this area in 1968.

Also nearby is the Russian Orthodox Church of Saint George, a memorial mosque, and a holocaust memorial synagogue. By the way, there are 800+ Orthodox churches in Moscow.

Next we stopped again at Red Square. An entirely different look at night, but still busy as can be. Saint Basil's Cathedral.

Clock tower of the Kremlin with Soviet red star on top.

Even at this time of night they were building the stage for the upcoming Cyrillic Alphabet festival. See guys working on roof to the right. Pretty extravagant for a festival about letters.

A better view of Lenin's tomb.

Along side were graves of other notable Russians. Kremlin wall behind.

Kremlin wall and tower. Senate building with flag in back. Lenin's tomb in front.

Another tower. Some of the churches in Cathedral Square behind.

Kremlin Palace.
The GUM store was just outside the square. This is maybe two-thirds of its front facade. Yes, it is that big!

Then we took a boat ride down the Moscova River. So peaceful and beautiful.

Here are some of the buildings we saw going to and from our ship and along the river. Sorry some not focused or identified, but taken from the moving bus or boat.

This is the Kotelnicheskaya Embankment Building (one of Stalin's Seven Sister buildings). The highest tower has 32 stories and, at the time it was built (1952), it was the tallest building in all of Europe. A 9-story block was residences lived in by famous Russians. After WWII much of the rest of the complex was turned into housing.

The Church of Saint Barbara on Varvarka Street (one of Moscow's oldest streets). The original structure was built in 1514 by the Italian architect Aloisio the New. It was disassembled in 1796 because it was not thought to "match the style of the area." It was soon rebuilt as it is today, on its original foundation. In the War of 1812, Napoleon used it as a stable for his horses. The church was closed in 1920. It was utilized as a warehouse and such til 1991, when it was given back to the congregation.

Called the White House or the Russian White House. It is the primary office of the Russian government and the official workplace of their Prime Minister, Dmitry Medvedev.

I don't think this one is of any significance, but pretty changing colors.

Bolshoi Theatre, home of the Russian ballet and opera. This is their 244th season!!

Cathedral of Christ the Savior. More later.

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Skyline.
Towers and steeples.

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And the Floating Bridge near the Kremlin. You read about this and saw the daytime photo a couple of entries ago.

On the ride back we saw that even the expressways were lit in sunrise/sunset colors of pinks, purples, and blues. At midnight the traffic was still a mad rush for the 45-minute ride home!!

The Russian "white nights" refers to their short dark time hours. We experience this on our trip, when about 03:00 the sky was almost daylight bright. Thanks to the dark curtains in our room we were able to sleep through.

If you can identify any of the mystery buildings above or any others unknown in the blog, let me know. Thanks in advance.