30 April 2020

Russia 2019 (47) - Facts of Russian Life

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Today we had a lecture on "Life in Russia." Here are some tidbits, as well as a few pix of people around town. If I find more facts within my notes, I'll add them.
- Country population is officially 145 million, but that does not cover most homeless or illegal immigrants.
- Must be 18 to drink alcohol, but 21 to buy it.
- There is 1-year mandatory military conscription for all males 18-27 years old, with a number of exceptions.
- Can drive at 18.
- Zero tolerance on drunk driving.
- After retirement, you do not have to pay property taxes.
- Type of cars commonly available are Lada (manufactured by a Russian company owned by French Groupe Renault), Hyundai, KIA, VW, Toyota, Renault.
- Many diplomatic cars we saw were Maybachs (high-end Mercedes). They have red license plates. Military cars have black plates. Police plates are blue.
- 60% of Russians have no savings.
- Guns purchased for self-defense cannot be carried outside the home, except for hunting trips. Must be 18 and pass extensive background checks to own one. Those with mental illness or drug abuse background do not qualify. Citizens cannot own guns that have burst action or have more than a 10-cartridge capacity. Air guns are OK.
- Life expectancy for men is 67 and for women is 76.
- There are 10 million more women in the country than men.
- Cigarette packages have a similar health warning as in the US and are sold from under the counter. There are smoking-only zones.
- 35,000 deaths due to alcohol each year.
- Most "recreational" drugs, including marijuana, are prohibited. Heroin illegally comes in from Afghanistan and synthetics from Southeast Asia.
- Health clubs are popular.

- 65% of high grads attend trade school; while 35% attend college.
- There are waiting lists for city housing. Can be years long.
- TV is controlled by the government. More than 100 stations in many languages.
- In magazine stands you will find, among others, Car and Driver, Playboy, Reader's Digest, tabloids, others (in many languages).
- A bill was recently passed against fake news and derogatory info.
- A government department equivalent to FEMA handles forest fires (and there are a LOT of forests in Russia).
- 60% of families live in an apartment, but also have a dacha (country home).

28 April 2020

Russia 2019 (46) ON BOARD - Vodka Tasting

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Although Mike was not able to make it to dinner, he was able to muster enough energy to attend the vodka tasting later that evening. This was the display as we entered the Panorama Bar.

Each table was set for four. We were joined by our (by now) VERY good friends Jim and Donna. They hail from near Columbus, Ohio, not far from Mike's sister's home.
The meaty appetizers, including pork fat and herring on dark bread, were not so much my style (although Mike, Jim, and Donna didn't turn up their noses). But thankfully there were some pickled veggies to clear my palate between vodka courses.
There were six brands for us to sample. All were served chilled.
Our hostess Marina described history on each and offered a taste description. She advised us to first smell, then drink, and then breathe in the essence.
In order of serving. Number relates to the bottles in the top pix from left to right, so you can see the labels. Italics are my comments.

Beluga Nobel (6) - Refined, rich taste, from purest Siberian artesian well water, malt spirit added, triple filtering system, rests for 30 days to neutralize harsh smell and soften its flavor. This was a good one to start with, as quite smooth to the palate.

Viking Vodka (5) - Made from winter wheat, infused with buckwheat honey, made in the city of Kashin (near Moscow), specifically for Viking. A little harsh for my taste.

Honey Buckwheat "Mead" (4) - Ukrainian in origin, made with natural honey and herb extracts (oregano, thyme, cinnamon, peppermint), darkest in color, may have medicinal value. Harshest of all, my least favorite. 

Kizlyarka Apricot (3) - A light straw color with influences from France's vodka recipes, dates back as far as 1657, from the city of Kizlyar. I liked it. It had an "after-kick." Best of the two flavoreds.

Tsarskaya Original (2) - Also comes in "gold," made from the purest waters of Lake Ladoga (which has glacial origins), filtered with birch charcoal and silver, said to have healing properties. This was our favorite.
Mamont (1) - Name comes from the exceptional woolly mammoth specimen discovered nearby, one of Siberia's oldest distilleries, distilled six times. Cool and unusual bottle. Smoother than the Beluga.

In between courses, Mariana and her assistant told stories and put on skits. As the evening wore on, they got funnier and funnier. Mariana matched the tastings one for one and was obviously as "happy" as the audience. Here's one story with our assistant using a straw to portray a mustache.

Well, at the end of the evening, we declared the healing powers of vodka to be a success, because Mike was as smiley and happy as I had seen him in several days. He even tried drinking the Russian way, with shot glass in the elbow. What a wild man!!
Here's our crew at the end of the evening--Jim, Mariana, Mike, Donna, me (lower left).
Other vodka tidbits:
- Vodka means "little water" in Russian.
- According to legend, the first Russian vodka recipe was concocted by a monk in the Kremlin in 1430.
- Originally called "bread wine" because it was made from buckwheat. Grape wine at the time was only for aristocrats.
- Until the mid-18th century vodka alcohol content did not exceed 40%, but these days ranges up to 90%.
- The first written mention of the word "vodka" in an official Russian document came from Empress Elizabeth in 1751. The decree regulated ownership of distilleries to the State.
- Due to the government policy of promoting consumption of state-manufactured vodka, it became the drink of choice for many Russians.
- In 1863, the government monopoly on vodka was repealed, causing prices to plummet and making it available even to low-income citizens.
- Its taxes produced much income for the government, at times up to 40% of all state income.
- By 1911, it was the alcoholic beverage of choice for 89% of Russians.
- Vodka remains liquid in even the coldest regions of Russia.
- Vodka is an excellent disinfectant and was used to treat soldiers in many wars, including as an anesthetic for wounded soldiers (by drinking it).
- One ounce of vodka contains 65 calories.

Russia 2019 (45) ON BOARD - Kitchen Talk

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After that we were invited on a tour of the top-side kitchen, which is adjacent to the dining room. The main kitchen is on the lower deck with two elevators transferring food up and down. It is almost four times bigger than this one. The head man is Executive Chef Leonidas from Greece.

The kitchen was clean as a whistle and very organized. There are 15 kitchen workers and two dishwashers. Items are prepared and cooked in lower kitchen, come up on elevators, and heated by convection oven, if needed. Sauced and garnished here and then served.
Plate stands help to make service efficient. The are 50 dining room tables of various sizes and 200 servings can be plated and served in 20 minutes. 

Menus are planned six months in advance. Computers help to keep orders straight and timely. All meals, including breads, are prepared fresh daily and leftovers go to the crew.
Beverages of all sorts are prepped here.






After the tour we each got a bit of champagne and tasty caviar-topped appetizers. They were yummy,

As we entered the dining room for dinner, we met a crew "conga line" for a farewell toast. We weren't actually disembarking for a few days, but Captain Vladimir and his leadership team took time today to celebrate new friends and happy memories from our Viking journey.

23 April 2020

Russia 2019 (44) LAKE LADOGA - On-Board Picnic

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The rest of the afternoon was filled with various activities as we passed through more locks and crossed Lake Ladoga. It is the largest fresh water lake located entirely in Europe. It has an average surface of 17,891 square km (69 square miles). Max depth is 230m (755 feet). At times we could not see any shoreline, just water, around us. In winter is is covered with ice up to a meter thick.

We passed many other ships (river boat and commercial) as we went along.

We would still have a busy rest of the day. First off, Mike had a quick re-visit to the doctor's office for another look-see at his bronchitis. He got another injection and advice to lay low for a couple of days. So off to bed he went.

I, on the other hand, sallied up to the sun deck and Sky Bar for an open air picnic / buffet.
Food and drink were mostly Russian style.



The on-board duo offered Russian music. There was dancing and mingling and just a lovely afternoon.
I took some treats back for Mike.

17 April 2020

Russia 2019 (43) MANDROGI - More Mandrogi

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There were lots of other things to see and do here. Even the ship's crew had free time to play soccer with the locals in their little stadium.
Log ramps led up to second story museum lofts.
Showing tools, dried herbs, and other items used in earlier and current times.
A two-person swing made from a log. Nice use of natural resources.
Cross a river on a tow-line ferry and find a park with giant wood carvings. The next trip over was in a half-hour and we didn't think we had time to wait and then wander the park. Did not want to miss the ship's departure.
Here's one sample of the giant carvings, seen from across the river. Felt bad about missing this side-trip.

Then we saw the world's largest felt boot, protected in a big plexiglass case. We two could have easily snuggled inside to keep warm and cozy on a cold Russian winter day.
Next we came across the Vodka Museum bear logo.
In the museum (one of the village's star attractions), we heard there are over 3,000 brands of vodka displayed. We didn't go in, but took this pix from the open door. An impressive display.

There was at least one restaurant, with mostly pastry selections at this time of day.

There was a horse farm and Zoological Center (vet office for pets, farm, and wild animals). All these guys looked happy and healthy.



Lots of kitties around, too, but most of them were grumpy.
This was the only friendly one we found.

Besides nesting-doll painting, there was one other organized option to experience--a traditional Russian banya ritual. Here you could have a dry sauna, steam bath, 5-10 minute therapeutic birch broom "massage," and a bracing cold water plunge / Svir River dip (about 59 degrees). They called it a "complete purification." One advertised caveat: A visit here may carry health risks for people with certain medical conditions. We decided thumbs down on this one, but a few cruisers tried it and said it was really fun and refreshing.

That morning felt so good to walk on our own without a big group, enjoying the flora and fauna and low-key activity of a small village. No crowds, no souvenir hawkers. Alas, at 1145 we reluctantly headed back to the boat...through two last chance gift shops, one on each side of the colorful canopy.