2015 ITALY Barolo 14 - Food Crafts

 At 08:30 we circled back to the town of Barolo (a Unesco cultural area), then on to some artisan food shops.

Silvia was our guide for this quaint little village of 800 residents and just over two square miles in size. It is in the region of Piedmonte and the wine producing region of Langhe. Here is a photo of the village--castle and school upper left-ish, and winery to right with round roof and surrounding buildings (we dined first night here). Under that is the winery as seen from the town. Oh, and their big fest is the Tripe Festival!!

The whole town is hilly, but walkable, even up a steeper incline to the Marchesi di Barolo Winery. Besides the winery, its main attraction is the Castello Falletti, originally built in the 10th century, later sacked by several enemies, given to the Falletti family in the 13th century as a summer home, and finally rebuilt in the 16th century.

The last Marchesa (winery named after her) was Juliette Colbert (known as Giulia di Barolo) who died in 1864. Her wish was to use the family fortune for the good of her people.

Monies and castle became Barolo College, an institution that schooled the majority of Barolo and surrounding area inhabitants from 1875 to 1958. For years, it was the only educational opportunity that the town's youth had, particularly poorer families. (Click here to read more about Juliette and husband Marquis Carlo Falletti's good works.)

In order to accommodate the school, the castle was transformed to a more modern facility in which students also lived during their education and training. Later the Professional School of Hoteliers opened in the classrooms. The castle proper, a museum now, is quite impressive with high walls, parapets, towers, fancy brickwork, and wine shop in the basement.

From there we walked the streets of the village stopping here and there for a bit of history. One place of interest was a store and corkscrew museum. Unfortunately is was not open for us to browse the 600+ corkscrews. (Click here to read more.) 

And we saw our first Italian kitty, a friendly, calico beauty. Wish I had kibbles on hand.

Our last stop in this town was the Dal Forno Cravero bread bakery.
(Click here to read more,) The head baker, Steve Cravero, showed us the process from bread dough to the slim bread sticks known as Grissini, unique to this area. This bakery makes 100 kilos of dough a day. Don't know how many breadsticks that translates into, but a LOT. 



We also met a fellow "stag-ing" here. His actual profession is trainer for the US Olympic skeleton (like a one-man bob sled) team. I can't imagine those interests going together, but he was very enthusiast and smiley about his duties.

Some tried our hand at stretching the dough into the 2-foot long sticks. Then we saw the dough sticks go into the oven and come out a rich golden brown. We got a bag of warm sticks to eat as we continued on our way.

Next stop was Pasticceria Marco Barbero's confectioner's shop (click here to read more), about 30 minutes away in the town of Cherasco. The original business was founded in 1881 and is considered a "Historical Italian Premises." Current owner, Giancarlo Torta, restored the shop and revived old recipes.

He treated us to a tasting of numerous hand-made chocolate products served on a little gold tray. There was chocolate of different cocoa percentages, chocolate with hazelnuts, chocolate with coffee, chocolate truffle, fruit dipped in chocolate, and chocolate on chili pepper. 

Then a taste of their version of Amaro, that Alpine herbal liquor we discovered in Torino. And topped off with a chocolate-coffee espresso. All delicious. We bought a few take-me-homes; not sure if they will make it all the way home to the family though. 

We continued on to the town of Bra, origin of the Slow Food Movement in the '80s. This life style is a way of saying "no" to fast food and the fast pace of life. And "yes" to taking time to enjoy simple pleasures, starting at the table. While we were in Italy, Slow Food Expo 2015 was happening in Milano, but we saw many signs for local slow food festivities in towns along our route. (Click here to read more on slow food movement.)

Our stop here was the Fiorenzo Giolito Formaggi cheese cellars (click here to read more). Our tour hostess was Lucia. Dashing shop owner Fiorenzo (3rd generation to make and market cheese) greeted us and treated us to a fine cheese tasting after the tour.

We briefly learned the process of making cheeses and saw the cellars where many exclusive cheeses are aged. We learned the differences in look and taste during the aging process, when it okay to eat the rind, and good and bad mold. There was also a display of old cheese-making tools. The shop handles many varieties of cheese from local cheese-makers--cow, sheep and goat. Their selection is vast.

We tasted 13 cheeses. I loved all but one and that was a bit "smelly" for me, but I think that was Mike's favorite. A variety of crackers and breads and wonderful wines backed up the cheese as well.

We got our first taste of grappa here also. This is an Italian alcoholic, grape-based beverage (70-120 U.S. proof). I hate to say this, but like it is kind of like an Italian version of tequila. All the ones I've tried were biting, and a bit hard to get down. It kind of takes your breath away, but once down it sure heats you up and mellows you out.

We had some extra fun here. Fiorenzo started to make a joke about a "thrifty" Scotsman who had stopped by. Lynn put on his hat and interrupted with a little "be careful, Laddie," as he is a true Scot through and through. They verbally bantered back and forth jokingly and immediately became best friends. Fiorenzo even had a Scottish hat of his own that he produced and we all got a big laugh. They even had to have their photo taken together (see above). 

Stomachs full once again, but it was a good base for the next two winery stops.

2015 ITALY Alba 13 - A Race to Remember

We all craved a nap, but no time. We did not want to miss the next events back in Alba ... the Palio degli Asini and the Medieval Festival parade.

When Giuseppe dropped us off at the hotel about 15:30, things were in full swing. We walked the crowded and rowdy (happy rowdy) streets to Piazza Medford (named after Medford, Oregon, Alba's first sister city). Re-enactors were winding their way to the event in realistic and colorful costumes of Medieval theme.

This Palio originated in the 1930s and was resurrected off and on throughout the years. In 1967 it was revived as a pre-event to the White Truffle Fest and as part of a historical re-enactment. This caught the attention of locals and tourists and has grown as an international event year after year.

Chef John had purchased advanced tickets for us in the bleachers near the start-finish line, a great location. As we waited for the race to start, each neighborhood or borough with their signature colors, drums and "weaving" flags paraded into the makeshift racetrack and on to their assigned seats. Then hay bales were set up to designate the oval route for the race.

After announcements and explanations, donkeys were maneuvered to the start line with riders in color gear from the nine boroughs. Jockeys also had a "support" crew of two or three to help them get set up and to cheer them on at close range. There were four heats--two qualifying heats, a special heat this year honoring Alba's six sister cities (jockeys wore white vests over their borough colors for that one), and then the final winning competition.

The mayor, town and church officials, and other dignitaries sat on the main stage right on the start/finish. They were dressed in formal religious and politico wear. It showed us just how serious and important this event is. It was also stressed that the donkeys should be respected. Good to hear!

The race was serious and hilarious. Donkeys ran every which way--forward, backward, sideways, running at top speed and stopping in an instant. Riders were just as funny--flying head over heels, pushing donkey butts, pulling harnesses with all their might. Both man and mule, kicking their heels in encouragement or stubbornness.

Boroughs cheered when ANY progress was made by their team or moaned at setbacks. It was just about the funniest thing we had ever seen. And the publicity cameras were clicking, like this was a Formula One race or something.

It took about ten judges to keep track of the contenders (see them top left of photo). In the end San Martino's donkey won the race. There was much revelling and high-fiving and hugging between team members and neighbors of that borough.

BUT ... our borough of San Lorenzo (where our hotel was located) won for Best of Show for re-enactment. Yay!

After the races, all the teams paraded back to city center. We got to see the extravagant and thorough depiction of Medieval times through their costumes. People of all ages joined in and we heard there were at least 1,000 active participants.

They wore costumes of royalty, peasants of all manner (cooks, farmers, shepherds, washerwomen), Gothes, knights in chain mail, beheaders, the "sick" carried in wagons, a number of popes and prostitutes, other religious characters, vestal virgins in white with flowers in their hair, courtiers, colorful Medieval marching bands, turbans, burlap, silk, velvet, everything imaginable and realistic. The little kids were especially cute, be they "princesses" or "poor."

One guy particularly caught the attention of the ladies, including me. Not sure what faction he represented, but he was a real piece of eye-candy. Even the local ladies behind us were a twitter and wanted to see the photo. He got a thumbs up from them, too.

After the parade was over, all the participants scattered about the city center to further entertain the tourists while they were going about their chores and shopping. Kids were carrying donkey shaped balloons. The merry-go-round was filled with knights and Gothes and goat herders.

There were many open market tables. Porcini mushrooms, black truffles (not as precious as white, but still tasty), and a few white truffles were on sale or at least proudly displayed in clear plastic boxes.

Other local goods and wares were offered, too. Big burlap bags of in-shell hazelnuts, honey, produce, fresh cheeses, sausages and other cured meats, anchovies, fresh and dry pasta of every shape (wish I could bring some of that home, but too delicate), crafts, tasteful souvenirs, and a plethora (I really like that word) of what-nots.

We had all gone our separate ways, but we ran into Lynn and Sandy. We decided to have a drink and return to our hotel. Every place of interest was packed with lines waiting, so we just headed back.

Off the beaten track and a half block from our hotel was an Irish pub, Mary Madden's. We debated going in because, again, we wanted something Italian-y. But it was almost empty (surprise) and it was handy. So we went in.

The gals got red wine and the guys got Guinness beer. They must have been grateful to see us, because we got a huge pile of complimentary (and tasty) French fries and a big bowl of popcorn. Two drinks later we ambled a few steps back to the hotel for the night.

Full day, full bellies, happy!

2015 ITALY Alba 12 - Rompin' Donkeys & Truffles

We would just miss the start of the White Truffle Festival in Alba by a few days. To be clear, a mushroom grows above ground, while a truffle (same family) grows underground. In this case, on the roots of oak, linden and hazelnut trees. These days dogs rather than pigs are trained to sniff them out. Prices below are 35 Euros per scratch and 400 Euros per hectogram (about 3.5 ounces)!!

An aside: Many years ago Mike and I once paid $18 each for scant shavings of white truffle on risotto at an Easter dinner gathering at the Ritz Carlton in Half Moon Bay, California!!
The festival originated in 1928 and over the years became renowned internationally for this fabulous smelling and tasting white truffle (or bianco tartufi in Italian). It is 80% water and the rest minerals and fat. The event is capped off with a live auction of the most prized and expensive morsel found. Invited only guests, renowned chefs, and celebrities attend. Proceeds are donated to philanthropic organizations. There is also a cooking award and a person is designated White Truffle Ambassador of the World. Those names would not be announced until the end of the festival though.

But this weekend was all about the pre-kickoff to the festival with the Palio degli Asini (or race of the donkeys). It is a take-off on the Palio di Siena, where jockeys representing their neighborhoods race horses bareback through the Piazza del Campo in Siena. That race is over in about 90 seconds and is taken very seriously with much training to qualify as a jockey.

Here we saw colorful flags hanging from balconies proclaiming neighborhood loyalties. Music groups (mostly drumming) paraded down the streets yesterday and today wearing neighborhood colors and skillfully tossed those matching flags. They DO take it seriously in spite of the hilarity of the situation.
At 10:00 we walked to the main square where donkeys were corralled ready to be assigned to neighborhoods by a pick from the hat. Some looked more enthusiastic than others and some downright lazy, flopped on the ground. Numbers were painted on there hindquarters. Jockeys and on-lookers surrounded the corral evaluating the situation.

There were lots of opinions, pointing, and sizing up of these asini, but luck of the draw would decide the fate of each neighborhood donkey candidate. Sighs or roars arose when a neighborhood and donkey were paired up. I imagine some "training" would occur between the lottery and the start of the race at 16:30.


At noon we boarded the van and headed to the quaint village of Triesa and La Ciau del Tornavento restaurant (click here to read more) for lunch. Name means something like "key of the returning wind" as best I can figure. The building itself was converted from a former post office.

When we walked in I thought I was on an elegant Hollywood movie set. Everything--floor to ceiling glass walls on three sides, staff impeccably dressed, polished table service, glass-covered cheese cart--were rich and picture perfect. We sat at a round table and a dozen courses began, pretty much each with a new bottle of wine to share.

Our hosts today were Chefs Maurilio Garola and Cecilia Monte. They came to our table to greet Chef John as though they were old and dear friends. Lunch lasted three hours and each course was a fabulous surprise in presentation and taste.

Some of the courses included: cheese souffle with peppers, shrimp with fried squash blossoms, bruschetta topped with fried onions, beef carpaccio, a soup with white truffle shavings and par-boiled egg, spinach ravioli in straw nest, polenta with veggies and scallops, wild baby strawberries on panna cotta, a selection of little pastries and sweets, a couple more I can't remember, and then a pick-me-up espresso.

This sounds like a lot of food, but helpings were small and timing leisurely. We were definitely full when we left, but not overly stuffed. After our meal we walked about their grassy terrace overlooking hector after hector of varieties of grape vines. There was also a huge steel artsy sundial in 24-hour clock mode. Not enough sun for it to work today, but still beautiful.

Then we were invited down to the private cellars of the restaurant. Here we found three rooms filled with untold numbers of bottles of great wine and champagne. They were lined along the walls and ceilings. Stacked in boxes on the floor. There were also two coolers filled with aging cheeses and cured meats. There were three or four antique meat slicers in pristine condition. And the finale was a room for special wines protected by a bank-like vault door.

Antique meat slicer.

 Champagnes.

Here is Karen with the biggest bottle of champagne we've ever scene.

 A vault filled with the most valuable wines.

2015 ITALY Alba 11 - Lodging

The Palazzo Finiti (click here to read more) in Alba wins for most square feet of space. Our suite named Azzura (or Blue) had two large rooms--a spacious bedroom with lots of storage and separate spacious lounge with desk, sofa, chairs, TV. The bathroom was also spacious except the shower. It was Jacuzzi style with several jets, but for us ugly Americans, we felt a bit squeezed in.

The view from our Juliet balcony was across a narrow cobble-stone street onto resident windows trimmed in lace curtains, flower boxes and wrought iron. Very quaint and Italian-ish. You could look up and down the street to lovely local buildings and passageways.

Chef John was right on for every location. This hotel has only nine well-appointed suites. It is located in the heart of Alba just 1-½ blocks from the historic main square and festival action. From the outside the building did not look like a hotel and, I think, originally must have been a wealthy family's residence. No signs other than the address numbers.

The lobby was warm, elegant, and inviting. In order to recreate the original atmosphere of Palazzo Finati, they house paintings of local artists of the area, which are also of sale.

The building itself is early 19th century recently renovated to preserve the original architecture, but add modern amenities. It had a tiny elevator just big enough for two and luggage. Rooms are individually decorated in Old World Italian style--lovely frescoed ceilings, antiques, marble bathrooms, hardwood floors, and Persian rugs.

The room keys weighed about a half pound each with a heavy doorknob like piece attached. This encouraged you to leave the key behind when you went out, so it didn't get lost. That worked for Mikie.

The breakfast buffet was in the lower level. It had a coved ceiling and original stonework. The two hostesses were most smiley and accommodating. They prepared your choice of coffee in extra large cups instead of the mini-espresso size. Needed it, loved it.

The buffet included cured meats and cheeses from the Langhe area, homemade breads and croissants, and fruits and jams. That was all we needed to get us going in the morning. Heck, we were still full from the previous day's meals.

Here is S&K's room.

Fun, fact:
Each room had a little card in it telling what famous people had stayed in that room. Lina Wertmüller (a female Italian director and one of our faves that often features Italian actor Giancarlo Giannini), Fioretta Mari (Italian actress), and Yōichi Takahashi (Japanese cartoon artist) had stayed in our room. And apparently Churchill, Marilyn Monroe and JFK (probably not at the same time!!) had also stay at this hotel.

Here is where our hotel was located in Alba (at Karen's cute face in white circle) and the donkey races were in the green field to upper left of us.