2016 ITALY Vico Equense 32 - Winding Our Way to a Pizza Party

We were anxious to get to our next hotel, the Villa Ketty in Vico Equense (a town we had not heard of until this trip). It was 37 miles (60 kilometers) southwest of the winery. But a tough 37 miles. It was dark and later than we anticipated to be on the road. We drove through Naples for what seemed like forever. Lots of twists and turns and a back-track or two. Our route was somewhat near the water, but too dark to really see.

We stopped for gas. The station was closed except for use of the pumps and it was a little intimidating with several fellows hanging around the gas station looking us over. This may just be my imagination, but I was happy when Giuseppe was safely back at the wheel and we were moving down the road.

When we finally got to the hotel, or I should say NEAR the hotel, we encountered a surprise and not a particularly good one. We took a windy narrow uphill cobblestone street toward the GPS checkered flag spot. But we ran out of road before arriving at our destination!!! Yes, there was another alley-like passage continuing to the hotel, but it was VERY narrow and involved tight Z-shaped bends. No way our 14-passenger van was going to fit on that one, no matter how skilled our driver was.

Chef called the hotel to find out what was up. They advised they would drive down and meet us in their mini car and mini pick-up. It took four trips to transport all our "stuff." Rather than wait for the next pick-up, we all decided to walk the Z-alley and meet our luggage at the hotel. 

It wasn't easy. Unfamiliar territory. Dark... only lights in doorways of a few abodes along the way. A mish-mash of dirt, rock, and cobblestone surface. A bit treacherous for our old eyes and balance issues. Even though we are walkers, the approximate quarter-mile trek was a challenge, but we all made it without mishap.



What a pleasant scene at the end of the trail. The hotel was a classic Italian villa and lovely. Definitely worth the walk. As it was dark, we could not really grasp the expansive view off the cliff, but the city night lights below sparkled. As the help took the baggage to our respective rooms, we had a welcome shot of limoncello on the spacious terrace.

After a moment to freshen up, out we went again to dinner. We were all stuffed, but couldn't bear the idea of missing a great meal. This time some walked the walk, but about half took the little "shuttle" back down to the van. Even those little vehicles had to go forward and reverse a few times to get around the "Z" area bends.

Giuseppe had no place to turn around at his stopping point, so we all hopped in the van and he backed down the windy quarter mile hill to a turn-around spot. Thank goodness he is a master driver. I'm sure it was still nerve-wracking for him. I know I was a wreck.

We arrived at the nearby ristorante about 1-½ hours late for our pizza party, but the chefs at Pizza a Metro da Giglio were ready for us. This place was expansive. Lots of tables filled with lots of families and couples. They had a huge viewing window of the kitchen with pizza ovens, meat slicing machines, and lots of other stainless steel equipment.

We were invited behind the viewing window to see the operation first hand. Chefs were kneading dough and building pizzas.

Not sure why the fellow above was such a grump, but he warmed up to us and made good pizza. Next we watched the pizzas (maybe 4-5 feet long) go into the ovens.

Sandy and I took a pose by the wood-burning ovens. Sandy is holding the long paddle they use to push and pull the pizzas out of the oven.
Back at our table we were served pizza squares. All you can eat, but we weren't much hungry after our indulgent previous meals that day.
 
We had three or four combos to accommodate our veg heads and carnivores.
There were wines and beers to compliment the pizza... their own wine vintage and an Italian beer we had not heard of before.
. 
It was all yummy and good.
At that point, we were sooooo ready to get back to the hotel. The day had been fun, but jam-packed, and we were quickly wilting. Sweet Giuseppe stopped at the bottom of the windy road and Z-alley, needlessly apologizing for he dare not go further this time. The mini-cars picked us up there. Some of our group walked, but Mike and I took the easy "chauffeured" way that night and for most of the rest of this hotel stay.

2016 ITALY Casalduni 31 - Dessert with a View

The brothers and Toni's two daughters (Gabriella and Sophia) hopped into their car and led the way down the road and up a hill just a few miles away. At the top was a castle built in the middle ages (14h century). It is not far from the winery and overlooks the municipality of Casalduni.

This Castello Ducale (relating to a duke) had deteriorated over many years and the brothers and their family initiated and financially supported restoring the structure to be used for a community and event center. What a fine job they did!

Outside to the left was a small but elegant chapel. I imagine weddings and other religious events are held there.

The grandeur of the staircase up to the castle entrance door was a preview of what laid inside. It is still impressive today, but without the authentic furniture and accouterments of its once majestic life. Above the tall arches on the right is an outside strolling balcony the length of the building. 


Today the entire structure has been restored to its original look. The staircases, window slots (now with protective glass), and carved adornments are impressive. It is outfitted as meeting rooms, classrooms, and event space for social gatherings.



On the back side of the castle is a large patio and pleasant walking paths. 


There is also the original well, unused today.

On the front side is the long strolling balcony, overlooking the valley and town below. We watched the skies and town turn from late afternoon to evening light.  
We topped off this visit with a wonderful dessert of fabulous homemade layered cake with chocolate and almonds served by Gabriella and Sophia.
  

And sipped an aromatic, sweet wine made from air-dried grapes (Passito also from the Terra di Briganti winery).

It would be hard to beat this winery experience. The brothers were so dedicated and passionate to their family and community. They went all out on a totally unexpected down home Italian meal. The wines were wonderful, of course. We felt right at home. What more could you ask for?

2016 ITALY Casalduni 30 - Finally, a Winery

Moving on, we saw some new nature--pepper (like salt and pepper) trees, cork trees (photo left), and prickly pear cactus (photo below with Mt. Vesuvius volcano in the background). Outside of Rome, we began to see hills covered with row after row of grape vines.

We reached the first winery of the trip--named Terra di Briganti (land of the pirates). We were met by Romeo and his 82-year old papa (or maybe papa-in-law). Here they are with Giuseppe on left and Chef John on right. In the back see the tasting room where we would have yet another (unexpected) full meal paired with their fine wines. The view out the back windows was gorgeous--hill, dale, vineyards.

This winery has a 150-year old family history. The current family managers are brothers, Romeo (43 on left) and Tony (45 on right). I only know their ages because there was joking back and forth about who is younger and who is more experience and who is more handsome.

If you ever heard of the Tappet Brothers on NPR's Car Talk radio show, you'll understand the hysterically, symbiotic relationship these two brothers have. They kept us laughing through our entire visit. They good-heartedly ribbed and one-up-man-shipped each other, continuously chuckling and punching the other's shoulder. We didn't speak much of each others' language, but somehow we communicated. We understood every joke and had big laughs all around. They were just too cute!

OK, back to business. First we got a little tour of their organic and bio-dynamic operation. A storm was brewing so we headed to the fields first. They produce 50 / 50 white and red wine grapes. The vines were heavy with ripe fruit and Romeo pulled off a bunch now and then for us to taste. Yum!

Their dogs and some of their neighbor dog friends joined us for the walk. All part of the family.

I also spotted a blooming artichoke (carciofi in Italian) plant along the way. It is part of the thistle family and does not appear very appetizing on the stem. But, no matter, my mouth started watering. It is a food I just cannot resist. Too bad you can't eat it off the stem, but have to wait 40 minutes for it to cook.

On the way back to the complex, Romeo pointed out this column near the entrance. He said the family was very proud of it, because it was made up of stones and crockery found on the land they own and farm.

This niche was also special to them. Again, the rock is from their land, the barrel is sentimental, and they display their wines here. In the window is a little fruit and flower alter in gratitude for their good and prosperous (in many ways) life.

The family has a brand new wine "workshop," with an ultra modern look on the outside.

We viewed their production, blending, and barrel aging rooms. Right now they have a fairly small operation, but have plans to expand.

Then back to the tasting room to eat yet another full, but delisioso meal.

We started with a big chunk of mozz on a fat homemade bread stick. It was a fun presentation and still tasted great even after all the mozz we had eaten just a bit earlier.

Two kinds of pasta were served, depending on if you were a carnivore or not.
We learned brother Toni is a vegan. So his wife had no problem accommodating the veg-heads in the group. This tomato sauce was as basic as it gets, but wow, I can't describe its pure goodness.

Umm, good veggies--potatoes and vari-colored peppers with Parmesano.

Although I am a red wine kind of gal, I enjoyed all the "pirate" wines served here today. I love the labels.

What a family affair.  Here is Julia (brother Toni's wife, cook, and translator of the day) with Romeo, and the nonno (or grandpa), who greeted us earlier. We learned he has Alzheimer's, but was treated with tender loving words, respect, and care, and we welcomed him to our table.

Next a young cousin showed up who helps on the farm (left). And then three of Toni's (center) sweetie-pie kids arrived after school. Romeo hamming it up again. The kids passed out winery-brand corkscrews to each of us as a souvenir of the visit.

We understand that all but the cousin live in the same home and that the nonna (grandma) was there now cooking the family dinner. All I've got to say is I'd like to be a part of this lively and lovely family.

As the Nonno bid us an "Arrivederci," we thought we were headed to the hotel next, but the brothers had one last surprise for us.

PS - Here's the brothers from years ago in an ad for their winery. Always happy-happy!