2016 ITALY Rome 26 - Lunch at a Jewish Spot

Al Pompiere was our luncheon destination, serving typical Jewish Roman cuisine. It opened in 1928 and has been run by the Monteferri family since then. It is located on the first floor (second floor in U.S. terms) of the Beatrice Cenci building.

This house belonged to the Cenci family in the 1600s. Beatrice was beheaded for killing her father who abused her. Although public sympathy abounded for Beatrice, the pope had her beheaded, some say, so that the church could seize the family fortune. (From Trip Advisor.)

Above is their cute logo. Looks like a bottle of Chianti putting out the roast chicken fire?!

Below is their entrance. Then you go up one flight of stairs. One story was even a challenge at this point in our day.

 

The dining room was lovely with a muraled ceiling and dark wood and marble trim. Also lots of aged and quaint paintings on the walls. We sat family style, altogether at one long table.

Here's friends Sandy and Lynn seated across from us.

Chef Nicoletta's specialties and delicacies included carciofi all jiudia (Jewsish style artichokes), fillet of cod, and zucchini flowers, as well as typical Roman cuisine of Tonnarelli pasta (with cheese and pepper), spaghetti carbonara (with cheese, egg, pancetta / Italian bacon), bucatini all'amatriciana (red sauce, pork jowl, chili flakes), and oxtail stew. There were also lots of veggies for the three veg heads in our group.

Here are some photos of our plates today. Not sure what this first one was.

 Fish fillets.

 Oxtail stew.

 Pasta trio.

And the all-time best artichoke dish I ever ate. The leaves are somehow gently spread out and then deep fried. May look a little burned, but not at all and not oily, just yummy. Deep fried zucchini blossom on left.

This lady lived across the street from the restaurant. If I lived here I would way 500 pounds within a week.

We got back to the hotel about 15:00. Dinner was on our own. Mike could not take another step, but I was anxious to continue the wander on my own.

2016 ITALY Rome 25 - More Piles of Precious Ruins in Rome

After exiting the Forum grounds we meandered our way toward the Jewish ghetto for lunch. It was a bit of a walk, but still interesting with more stories of excavations and ruins.

Everywhere you look you see fencing around dug out areas, parts of columns, aqueducts, ancient housing...most below current street level. Often when subway lines are being constructed, important ruins are discovered, which holds up the whole project until they are investigated. Maybe for years!! Here are some sites along the way.

There were lots of columns, mostly remnants.

This one was special--Trajan's Column. It is a triumphal column honoring Emperor Trajan's victory in the Dacian Wars between Rome and the Dacia (currently Transylvania or Romania). It was completed in 113 AD and is famous for its spiral bas relief, artistically documenting the history of the wars. The base is also the mausoleum for Emperor Trajan. Scholar's believe the column was originally painted in bright colors.

The structure is 98 feet (30 meters), not including the bronze topper. It is comprised of 20 colossal Carrara marble discs, each weighing 32 tons. The diameter of the column is 12 feet (3.7 meters). The historical commentary winds around the shaft 23 times and is 620 feet (190 meters) in length. Inside the shaft is a spiral staircase of 185 steps, which lead to a viewing platform at the top. The column depicts warrior Emperor Trajan 58 times, along with 2,662 other figures and 155 scenes.

We passed by the "wedding cake" again.

The Cordonata Steps (1582 AD) on the right were built originally as a roadway to accommodate people, horses, and donkeys...so not as steep as those on the left. Both connect Piazza d'Aracoeli (originally the Market Square) to the Piazza del Campidoglio at the top of Capitoline Hill.

This square at the top of the hill was designed by Michelangelo and is considered one of the most beautiful in Rome. It was originally filled with government buildings. Today they mostly house museums.

Near the capitol were more ruins, said to be "apartments" four stories tall, but today half buried. Beautiful murals and brickwork though.

We came across theTeatro of Marcellus, a mini version of an open air colosseum. It was completed in 13 BC (yes, BC). Diameter is 364 feet (111 meters), with a capacity of 11-20,000 spectators. It is the earliest datable building to make use of fired Roman brick, a process borrowed from the Greeks. The structure was originally completely sheathed in white marble and was used for drama and song. Today the upper floors are divided into apartments and the outside area is used as a small concert venue in the summer.



Next was the Portico d'Ottavia. This was an entrance and pathway of sorts to the Jewish Ghetto. In the Middle ages, the area was filled with houses, churches, monasteries, and convents. We saw the remains of the 8th century church Sant'Angelo of Pescheria (Church at the Fish Market).

Graves in the church cemetery were layered one on top of the other between the 9th-13th centuries. As one layer was filled, a new floor was built to accommodate the next generation of dead.

The Jewish community was forced to attend services here in this Catholic Church. Sabrina mentioned that they would put stones in their ears, so they could not hear the spoken words. Here is the back side and path.

Near the end of our walk we saw this guy and many others with this same modern, dual rider "chariot!" I guess you just hop on the back and he takes you where you want to go like an open air taxi. Wish we would have seen him earlier. As our feet were tired and achy, we would have treated our whole group to this wheelie transportation.

Aside One: I often saw the letters SPQR carved on buildings or monuments. I asked Sabrina, our tour guide about the symbol. It is "initials" for the Latin phrase Senatus PopulusQue Romanus (The Roman Senate and People) and refers to the government of the ancient Roman Republic. It is still used today as a modern day emblem of the government, shown on currency, at the end of legal documents, government buildings, etc.

Aside Two:  Romans were not racists. Septimius Severus (193-211 AD) was the first black African-born emperor. His eldest son Lucius Septimius Bassianus or "Caracalla" (211-217 AD) was the first black Italian-born emperor. The long list of other black / Moorish / African emperors of Rome continues with Caracalla's brother Geta, Maximinus, and others. To learn more about this topic, search "black emperors of Rome."

We didn't see them, but the second largest Roman public baths were developed by Caracalla and were in operation for about 300 years. The building and waters were heated with underground coal and wood fires. Capacity was thought to be 1,600 at a time or 6-8,000 per day. Even the ruins of these baths are so beautiful that they were inspiration for New York's Penn Station and Chicago's Union Station.

2016 ITALY Rome 24 - Strolling the Roman Forum

Looking from an upper window of the Colosseum, we saw the buildings on Palatine Hill (original capitol of Roma). Downhill and to the right is the Roman Forum complex, our next stop. And what a beautiful day for strolling--blue sky and comfortable temps. Hoping my shoes will be comfortable, too. Lots more walking to do.

The Forum was actively in use from 800 BC through 600 AD, with the majority of structures built during the reigns of Julius Caesar and Augustus, his successor. It was the heart of Roman culture. Besides government buildings, there were markets, various businesses, temples, monuments, entertainment areas, and more.

After its peak, layer upon layer of dirt and debris accumulated over time. It transformed into an ignored part of the city where livestock grazed. Excavation began in 1803 and took over 100 years to complete. Today the grounds lie in majestic ruins, a testament to Roma's architectural ingenuity and beauty.

We walked past the Arch of Constantine (315 AD). This is the largest of the Roman arches. It celebrates the triumph of Emperor Constantine the First over Emperor Maxentius. From 293-313 AD Rome was ruled by four emperors (a tetrarchy), which caused chaos in the Empire. The battle between these two men ended the reign of multiple emperors and made Constantine the sole head of state.

We entered the Forum under the Arch of Titus, a first century memorial honoring that emperor. The style of this arch set the tone for future honorific arches.

We proceeded on basalt stepping stones laid in ancient days. Slaves to emperors had tread these very walkways for centuries. Once again the stones are used, now by modern-day visitors.

We continued up the Palatine Hill to an area overlooking the entire grounds of the Forum. Spectacular! Think of the next three pix as a panorama--top to the left, second in the middle, third to the right. The area measures 273 yards (250 meters) by 186 yards (170 meters).

The mid-left-side structure with three arches honors Emperor Septimius Serverus (193-211 AD). This monument was where excavation began. See the current day white "wedding cake" government building behind it.
There were pools and springs, and open areas for military parades and strolling.
See the Colosseum in upper right background. Basilica of Maxentius is structure with three large arches (more later).
Here is a photo from the grounds looking up to our original viewing spot on Palatine Hill. Yes, those are people looking down.

Imagine travertine and other colorful marbles covering all the building surfaces inside and out. Even some streets were paved with marble. None here now due to scavengers and "recyclers." Scarce red cinnabar was used for decoration. All very opulent for its day.

There were so many ruins it is hard to decipher what was what. But I will try to point out a few. The columns to the right are the entrance to the Temple of Saturn (497 BC), obviously dedicated to the god Saturn. In the Roman religion, he was the god of agriculture, abundance, wealth, and time. The state treasury of silver and gold and official scales were stored here. It is one of the oldest buildings in the complex.

Also, the Column of Phocas (on left). This Corinthian column is 44 feet (14.6 meters) tall and was the last addition to the Forum. It honors Emperor Phocas. In 608 AD, he was the leader in the Byzantine Empire (also knows as the Eastern Roman Empire). The exact occasion for this memorial is unknown, but may have had to do with a "donation" to the pope.

Temple of Vesta (the virgin goddess of earth, home, and family). Vestal virgins (Vesta's caretakers) were chosen between 6 and 10 years old and were "free of physical and mental defects." If it was discovered they lost their chastity, they could be buried alive. After serving 30 years, they were dismissed and could marry.

They lived in the nearby House of the Vestal Virgins. Their tasks included keeping a perpetual fire burning in the temple, fetching water from a special spring, and other menial tasks, but they also enjoyed luxuries and a high social status.

Temple of Castor and Pollux (495 AD), built in gratitude for victory at the Battle of Lake Regillus. These "twins" of Gemini were the twin sons of Zeus (or Jupiter) and Leda. The battle was a defeat over the expelled last king of the Empire, Lucius Tarquinius Superbus, who was trying to retake his kingdom.

Caesar's Alter. This seems to be a gathering spot. After Julius Caesar was murdered by members of the Senate on the Ides of March (3/15/44 BC) at the Theatre Pompeii, his body was brought here. An alter was built to mark the spot.

Wasn't much to it at this point other than a "pile of nicely placed boulders." A canopy has been added to protect the memorable space. It is astonishing, however, to know the event is still remembered and the alter intact after all these years.

Basilica of Maxentius or Basilica Nova (New) (308-312 AD) (see previous photo of the structure). Here's a peek of the largest building in the Forum. This shows an outer wall and supports, which made up about ⅓ of the structure. Basilica meant large aisled hall at that time. This building was used as a combo court house, meeting place, and council chambers. Wrestling events for the 1960 summer Olympics were held here.

The big building in the back with tower is the Tabularium (78 BC). It was a government office building of sorts and also held the official records of ancient Roma. It is higher in elevation because it lies on Capitoline Hill. It is now part of the Capitoline Museum.

Temple of Diva (or divine) or Temple of Antonin and Faustine. Construction began by Emperor Antoninus Pius in 141 AD and honored his deceased wife Faustina. Later dedicated to both by Marcus Aurelius. At the bottom of the stairs (not in view) was an alter for sacrifices. I am assuming and hoping animal. It is currently used as a Catholic church.

Here are a few more pix of artful details and grandiose ruins found throughout.

Honestly, I could go on and on. The discoveries and information are endless. But at this point the blog entry is probably too long already. I'm not even going to offer recommended reading. Just look up Roman Forum and you will find tons. I'm going to do a little more research myself.

2016 ITALY Rome 23 - Return to the Colosseum (or Colliseum)

This was actually my second trip to Rome. Not sure of the exact date of the first, but around 1975. A co-worker, Sandy Rags, and I took a TWA employee promotional trip here. We were young, single, and carefree. I don't remember many details except we often were  pinched on the behind by male passersby. We stopped at the Colosseum, of course. Sandy took this pix of me with some Italian military cuties.

Today's sightseeing started at the Colosseum. We had a 09:00 pick up and about a half hour drive. Again, drove past Palatine Hill (most central of the Seven Hills of Rome and one of the most ancient developments). One side overlooks Circus Maximus (early chariot racing stadium) and the other side overlooks the Forum (next pix). We would see that later in the day.

Our tickets were pre-purchased, thank goodness, because it was a mob scene. Only 3,000 visitors are allowed in at a time and 20-25,000 per day. I think they were all there at the moment we arrived.

The Colosseum was still a minder-bender the second time around. This was our first view from the parking lot of this magnificent structure.

I'd love to see it at night all lit from the inside.
The name may be derived from colossus or "very large," such as the Colossus of Rhodes statue which was 108 feet (33 meters) tall. And this place was VERY LARGE. In fact, it is the largest amphitheatre EVER built. It originally had 80 entrances; now it as one public entrance (with metal detectors). The dark lines you see here are re-enforcement support. 

This is just after we entered on the circular outer walkway. Photo not clear, as we were hustling along. Each arch is one of the original entrances.

Here is a diagram of the spectator levels. The closer you sat to the center arena, the higher your status in Roman life. Lowest and closest to the action were Emperors, senators, vestal virgins (priestesses of Vesta, the Roman religion goddess of hearth/home/family). Women were seated at the very top. Hrrrumph!

This oval-shaped amphitheater was constructed between 70-80 AD. It was a "gift" to the citizens from Emperor Vespasian after the terrible reign of Nero. Construction funds came from the opulent spoils taken from the Jewish Temple after the Great Jewish Revolt in 70 AD.

The structure is free-standing, unlike most Greek theatres, which were built into a hillside. It is 157 feet (48 meters) high, 615 feet (189 meters) long, 510 feet (156 meters) wide, and covers six acres (almost 2.5 hectares).

It had four centuries of active use and since then two-thirds of the structure has deteriorated from neglect, earthquakes, a fire caused by lightning, and stone-robbers. In recent years it has been cleaned, refurbished, and re-enforced. That work continues.

In its prime, the structure held an average of 65,000, but up to 87,000 spectators. They viewed gladiator contests, celebrations, and public spectacles such as mock sea battles (complete with "lakes" of water), wild animal "hunts," re-enactment of famous battles, and dramas based on classical mythology.

Other "spectator sports" included executions and man-against-fierce-animal challenges. Prisoners were both criminals and sex-symbols. Their possible freedom was based on how long a fight would last. Then the emperor gave a thumbs up or down, for a lighter sentence or full release.

This photo displays the big picture. To give a perspective of the immenseness of the structure, notice how tiny the people look. At the other end, the white-ish new wood floor demonstrates the location of the original arena floor.

The "aisles" at center and below were two levels of passage ways and chambers for backstage business. Some of the enclosed rooms on the sides were vomitoriums. I guess there was a lot of drinking going on in these events. 

I took probably 100 shots altogether of the interior, but narrowing it down here to just a few of the details. Here see the third and top tier added by Emperor Domitian to increase seating capacity.

Whitish-ish platform is where original arena floor was. There were also permanent and moveable awnings to use when it was too sunny. Again, check the people size comparison.

Seating?

Constructed is considered a "dry build." Bricks were hand-made. No cement was used. Incredible!

 Original pavers.

Close-up of highest rim from inside. Notice the difference in construction of the added tier.

We didn't have the upgraded ticket to get into the two lower levels, but you could see it pretty well. This area was called the hypogeum. It was a vast network of tunnels, passage ways, cages, and chambers to house fierce animals, slaves, servants, and prisoners.

Five-hundred men worked in these dungeons. They manipulated vertical and horizontal hoists to move stage settings, trees, and animals to the main arena floor. Animals included exotic birds, elephants, lions, tigers, bears, hyenas, wild boar, wolves, bulls, buffalo, etc. I'm thinking not particularly a fair fight for the guys, but it is estimated that over 7,000 animals were killed here in events.

 

This entire complex was vastly sophisticated and impressive for its time. The architecture was a marvel. I could picture it teaming with excited Roman citizens in traditional toga garb, rather than the many casual tourists like myself drifting around google-eyed.

Read many more details at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Colosseum. It is fascinating. It covers construction details, seating arrangements, tickets to get in, various popes' involvement, even what plants grow in the walls!

An aside: This would be our last day with Sabrina, our fabulosa Roma tour guide. She was so animated (like most Italians) that I never did get a great photo of her. Here she is with an interesting book that some in our group purchased at the bookstore.

There are a number of books of this style for various sites within Roma. This one depicted the Colosseum. It was a kind of pop up book that displayed sketch drawings of the "original" Colosseum and then flip a page or two to see how it looked over time. This was an easy way to compare then and now with an occasional interim view.