26 February 2018

2016 ITALY Trecase 48 - Lunch on the Vine

Lunch was at a fine winery. Yay! But poor Giuseppe had a challenge. To get there, we drove down the narrowest of roads. No room for cars to pass if they met head on. Once at our destination, there was a tight right turn into a very narrow driveway. Cars were waiting in the road while G tried backing into the narrow gates.

He to-and-fro-ed it close to a dozen times trying to squeeze in. Bystanders gave directions and warned if he got too close to the tall stone wall surrounding the property (see sign pix below). He got in, but alas scrapped his brand new van on one fender. Bummer!

Casa Setaro (the family name) is a winery with grapevines in the yard, processing operation, cellars, and a family home with swimming pool and lovely garden all on the homestead. It is located on the slopes of Vesuvius in a suburban area of Trecase.
Massimo, in the tradition of his family, runs the entire 10-year old operation from vine to bottle. They grow both red and white grapes. At this moment the grapes seemed ready to magically burst into wine.
First we sat for a wonderful small plate lunch, including excellent wine pairings, as Massimo explained their history and their operation. The house reminded me of our California ranch style home. We lunched on their open air veranda.
Although they are a young winery, Massimo boasts they have already won awards for this Spumante Bianchi. 
Another of their popular wines is Lacryma Christi Riserva Don Vincenzo (named after Massimo's papa). Here is what was served today.
Massimo's young children, Alessia and Vincenzo, served the food while mom Mariarosaria (in white) looked on. So cute and eager to help.




After the repast, we enjoyed exploring the property, petting their dog Pluto, chatting with mom, and playing foosball with the kids. 
Then we toured the operation with Massimo and daughter leading the way. Looks like she'll be a vintner some day. Except for a few here, most of their vines are located just inside Vesuvius National Park. Area soils are influenced by volcanic debris--loose and rich with black sand and lapilli (little stones). It is dense with minerals, potassium, iron, phosphorus, and silica.
Then we saw the small but growing processing facility.
All the equipment was new and modern. A small, but high-class operation.
The cellar is conveniently located under the family home. The humidity and temp are perfect there.  They use American and French oak barrels. This is the shortest work commute I could ever imagine--just a stairway away. I'd be wine testing and tasting all night every night. 
We so enjoyed this stop. We came into the family home and felt like relatives. The atmosphere was warm and open. Kind of hated to leave, but time and sightseeing marches on.

25 February 2018

2016 ITALY Pompeii 47 - Modern Art in an Ancient World

As we entered the gates of Pompeii (and a few as we departed), we were greeted by an open field of huge metal modern art pieces. I don't know know anything about them (artist, date, etc.), but I really enjoyed seeing the juxtaposition. Although modern, most were "fractured" like the lives of the true inhabitants here. You have to study them a little to really appreciate. Some are almost comical.










2016 ITALY Pompeii 46 - Away to Pompeii

Disclaimer: The whole site was teeming with hoards of tourists. Most photos are heavily cropped or have a lot of unintended peeps in view. Sorry about that. Besides the Vatican, this was the busiest place we visited.

An aside: Also at the start of the tour you come into an open area with mostly oversized modern art pieces. I'll show some of those on the next entry.

Ancient Pompeii is a city frozen in time. Its location is about 5 miles (8 kilometers) from Mount Vesuvius. There is also a modern city of Pompei, but spelled with one "i."

After a 25 minute drive from the pasta place, we met our new tour guide, Domenico, at the snack stands. He led a 2.5 hour tour through Pompeii.

The Mount Vesuvius volcano is hundreds of thousands of years old and has erupted more than 50 times over that period. Its most famous eruption occurred in 79 AD, when it covered the bustling city of ancient Pompeii in a thick blanket of volcanic ash. It is estimated that 2,000 of its 15,000 residents died in the initial blast.



Those residents were stopped dead in their tracks, doing whatever they were doing. "Skeletons" in situations of every day life or trying to escape or hugging their loved ones in fear were abundant. Artifacts and structures remain, preserved by the same volcanic ash that doomed the entire city.

Archaeologists believe the town was founded in the 7th or 6th century BC. So the 13-20 feet (4-6 meters) of ash and pumice that covered it, left a legacy of much to learn about a long bygone civilization. For example it was found that jobs included textile manufacturing and shoe cobbling.

In 1599, the site was discovered, but fell by the wayside. In the meantime, much of the best building materials (such as white marble) and art work were stolen, and sold or "recycled" in new buildings. Gold and jewelry, as well,

In 1748, Spanish engineer Rocque Joaquin de Alcubierre, re-discovered the ruins. Excavation began in earnest and continues to this day. At least a third of the city remains covered. Archaeologists were surprised to find it almost perfectly intact almost 2,000 years after the event. A sign indicating "Pompeii" was uncovered in 1763, definitively identifying the city.



We saw only one "skeleton" in a glass box displayed as an example. I was happy for that. I'm squeamish, so no pix. Others are kept in a museum. To make the "skeletons," they put the remains in a bath of plaster. After that hardens they carefully removed the remains to make an empty cast. Next the cast is filled with cement (or something) and when that hardens the cast is broken away. This leaves the "body" of cement in its original position.

There was so much to absorb and learn in this over one-quarter square mile (170 hectares) area. We did not nearly cover everything. After wandering for a bit, things started to run together in my mind. So I will just display some pix and comment, if I can.

Columns everywhere.


The bordello (or lupinaro) was the busiest spot on site. We stood in line to get in!! These paintings were found on the bordello walls. They suggest sexual positions. Put on your magnifiers... There were also room-ettes with hard raised beds. Hope they had thick mattresses.
There were a number of phallic references around town. Erect penises were displayed on street corners (study below), as water spouts, in paintings and sculptures, etc. It was apparently not to be lewd, but to display signs of prowess and good fortune. The National Archaeological Museum has many other examples in its Pompeii Collection. Also, much of the construction was marble and tufa stone, a porous rock made of calcium carbonate (a form of limestone).

Building with decorative design.
The streets were made of large flat stones. There were ruts from years of wagon wheels passing by and lower areas on the side for water (etc.) to drain away. There were larger stones to step across the street without getting your feet wet.


Saw this white cat hanging out.


The Theatre of Pompey (sp?) was completed in 55 BC. Stage to the right. It is in use today. Elton John and Pink Floyd performed here. There is another small theatre with a textile roof and excellent acoustics.




There were cold and hot baths. Men and women bathed separately.

An alter.
An oven for a restaurant. You could tell the difference between the rich and poor folks eating areas. This is the fancy one.
Floors.

This is the most famous house. This is thought to be the dining area floor. Columns surrounded an outdoor courtyard.

Fountain in the same house. Researchers also identified a living room, BBQ area, two courtyards, laundry, and kitchen.

Wells. Guess which one the well-to-do used.

More ruins--homes or stores. We saw a bakery, a grinder shop, 
Sports field.
Well, there was much more. We found on the way out there was a brochure with a path to follow to more easily identify interesting spots then or later. I would have paid a lot for that for sure, but oh well.

Outside the exit were all the gift shops and hawkers. I figured my photos were enough of a remembrance.