The city of Modena(pronounced
like eenie-meanie-miney-MO ... MO-denna) is also located in the Po River Valley. It is home to the three things mentioned above. Nothing more to be said about balsamic.
I learned to love opera while listening to it at a green nursery in Half Moon Bay, California. It was so pleasant walking around the gardens with the tenors or sopranos singing in the background. And Luciano is one of my (well, everyone's) favorites.
We couldn't afford a Ferrari, but we love the look and love watching them in the Formula One races. One of Ferrari's cars, the 360 Modena, was named after this town. Other famous car companies with factories located here or nearby are (or were) DeTomaso, Lamborghini, Pagani, and Maserati.
This was our last stop before dinner. Bubbly Sabrina (born in Parma) was our guide. We met her in the city center near the Military Academy of Modena, founded in 1678. It is housed in the baroque style Palazzo Ducal (Duke's Palace) and is the first such military institution of its kind to be created in the world. Here is where future Italian army and carabinieri (police) officers are trained. A military library and museum are also located here.
One famous alumni of this school was Charles Cornwallis, the British army officer who surrendered at Yorktown (USA) during the American Revolution. Many other famous graduates were named from Italian and international ranks.
You couldn't go beyond the heavy main gate, but you could peek into the courtyard and see the elegant buildings surrounding it. Lots of young folks in uniform were passing to and fro. By the gate was a memorial to fallen soldiers, Italian and others, from WWII.
Walkways were lined with one-of-a-kind stores like this meat shop filled with the culatello products we had seen being processed a day earlier.
Next was the Modena Duomo. There was a service going on at the time we arrived, so we were not able to get inside, but the outside was quite impressive. This Romanesque style cathedral was consecrated in 1184. It is dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin Mary and Saint Geminianus (Modena's patron saint).
A side entrance was guarded by two lion statues. Lions seem to be a common theme in Italy and it is interesting to see the style of each. Some were elaborate and some quite primitive, depending on when they were sculpted. These by the duomo side door were quite primitive. At the front door they were bigger, standing tall, with massive mains, and bearing teeth.
Next we went to Modena Town Hall, which faces the Piazza Grande (a UNESCO World Heritage Site). The edifice includes a connection of several buildings from as far back as 1046. It is a combination of government offices and museum. A wonderful clock tower designates the main entrance.
One room called "The Chamber of the Confirmed" houses an important symbol of the city. It is the Secchia Rapita (Stolen Bucket), a bucket kept in memory of the victorious Battle of Zappolini (or "War of the Oaken Bucket" in 1325) against Bologna. It seems a student from Bologna stole the bucket and the Modenese really wanted it back.
Our last stop on this tour was the Mercato Albinelli food market. The market has been open since the Middle Ages. The current liberty style structure opened in 1931. It offers all kinds of fresh produce and fruit, fresh and cured meats, cheeses, fresh pasta, wine, honey, balsamic vinegar, chestnuts, macaroons, little cafes, and much more housed in one large building.
At the center of the market is a little fountain and statue of a child holding a fruit basket. It is a work by the famous sculptor Giuseppe Graziosi who also created the main foundations in the city. Unfortunately I did not get any photos here. My camera ran out of juice. But you can find photos and information at: http://www.mercatoalbinelli.it/la-storia/?lang=en or http://www.visitmodena.it/english/tourist-information/discover-the-area/art-and-culture/modern-architecture/mercato-coperto
An aside:
I just loved Sabrina's lime green shoes--comfy, fun, and stylish. She said she bought them in Milan. Darn! Not stopping there on this trip.
(Back at the bus, I got my other camera for these shots.) OK, after the Mercato we were really ready for dinner, mouths watering. Dal 1934 da Amerigo did not disappoint. This trattoria-osteria was opened in 1934 by grandpa Amerigo. It is a 1-star Michelin ristorante located about an hour away in the small town of Savigno.
Owner and chef Alberto Bettini met us with a big smile and a big hug for John. He was a gracious host and helped serve or checked in with us at each course. He offered touching family stories throughout the evening
The restaurant was on the cozy side. Dark woods and old Italian country decor. We all felt like we were having dinner with Chef's family.
The restaurant was on the cozy side. Dark woods and old Italian country decor. We all felt like we were having dinner with Chef's family.
The food was simple, but creative. Dinner included crisp fried veggie balls, polenta with LOTS of white truffle shavings (oh, so good and the only place on our trip where we got polenta), flat breads with chilled parmigiana cream and balsamic, creamy liver pate on brioche toast, meat filled tortellini, slow posted pork neck shoulder with baked onion torte, and more. As a pescatarian, I got some of the above, as well as noodles with shaved parmigiana and sautéed fish with stuffed pepper. All soooooo good.
After dinner we were invited into the family store. Grandpa Ameriga's childhood photo was proudly displayed on the wall.
It was filled with jams, vinegars, wines, sauces, the chestnut liquor, and other food delicacies. Many of the items were a product of Amerigo's kitchen.
It was dark and quite late when we left the ristorante. Some chatted about the meal. Some just watched the mesmerizing night lights as we traveled down the road. Some snoozed. Glad to be home this night. It was a long day.
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If you have visited any of these places, we would love to hear your comments. Or send us recommendations of places we should not miss.