22 February 2018

2016 ITALY Naples 38 - The Drive into Napoli

We had a 45 minute drive from the cheesery into Naples.Traffic was a bit harrowing. The freeway was busy and there was construction. But with Giuseppe at the wheel, we had no worries, even though this was unfamiliar territory for him.




On the approach to Naples and a number of miles into the city as well, we were pleased to see what looked like community gardens all along both sides of the freeway. There were a wide variety of crops, as well as date palms, but certainly lots of basil and tomatoes. We were told later that these gardens are organically farmed. A great use of land, as nobody wants to live right next to a bustling freeway.

Near to the main part of town we saw the harbor with a great promenade. Just take in the view all these apartment dwellers see each day.

We passed by Castel Nuovo (New Castle). It is a architectural landmark in the city. It was built in 1279. At that time Naples was the capital of the regional kingdom and this structure was built to house and protect the court. We could not see it from our angle, but it has an imposing triumphal wall and double arch on one end. Google "castel nuovo" to see it.

Within the city was more beautiful architecture, although I do not know specifically what these buildings were. In the first one, I would love to dry our sheets off the balcony! Second one, bright colors. Last, compact living.



















We were to meet our guide for the day, Marina de Martini, in the city center. Amongst all things beautiful, we saw many people sleeping in the streets at this broad daylight hour, hanging out, and appearing to ask for handouts. Almost like refuge camps.

Then as we waited for Marina in the van at the entrance of the high end UNA Hotel, we noticed a number of men trying to sell things to drivers and passersby.




Others were imposing a window wash on drivers who were stuck at the red light. They sprayed soapy water from pop bottles onto windshields, and more or less demanded payment before wiping away the suds!!! Drivers were essentially held hostage. These men are called ladros (or thieves). Naples has a reputation for pickpockets, crime, and mafia dealings, but this was ingeniously petty. 

When Marina arrived she explained that the unemployment rate in the city was 40%  "four-zero!!!" Then I got it. There was a lot of competition for jobs. Unlucky folks could not afford a home, so they slept on the street or had nothing better to do than hang out.

These guys were desperate to feed their families. Window cleaning didn't seem as bad as first suspected. At least they could say they were working for their money and they weren't robbing banks. I felt empathy and sorrow for the situation.

We continued on and spotted this little flower shop by the sea. It cheered me up.


Our next stop was one of the most interesting for me.

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