Russia 2019 (31) YAROSLAVL - 1,009th Birthday

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Yarosloval is a World Heritage UNESCO city of 600,000. This quaint town is advertised as one of most significant and picturesque ports along the Volga River. Upon arrival we hiked up a tall-ish staircase from portside to the Volzhskaya Embankment (or bluff).

Then we walked down this lovely park path of linden trees and a monument to local poet Nikolay Nekrasov.

Tulips were in full bloom (along with the lilacs).

This was a bronze "scroll" that depicts the layout of the town. It was probably 5x5 feet and rested atop a large boulder. You can see the Volga at top right, the outline of the main city on the bluff, and the lookout onto the scenic lowlands where the compass is. 

Here's more of a street sign needed for directions. The city is actually at a point where the Kotorosl River enters into the Volga River.

This shows the lowland area below the bluff. This particular weekend the town was celebrating its 1,009th birthday. From this vantage we saw a garden art piece documenting the event. (Just think, the USA is only 243 years old this year!!)

One of our first stops was the lacquer-ware market. We were advised this WAS a reputable place to purchase items. There were all shapes, sizes, and colorfully painted designs. The "engagement ring" or maybe bracelet motif (center top) was certainly interesting. These were probably six inches in diameter. 

The first known boxes started with icons for the design. Authentic pieces are paper mâché based with up to 50 layers of paint. They take up to six weeks to make and basically come from only four Russian villages--Fedoskino (women and fairy tales), Palekh (fairy tales), Kohlui (landscapes and famous buildings), and Mstera (simpler designs).

Ours was made in Kholui. We choose a small box (2x2 inches) depicting Christ the Savior Church (the big one we had seen in Moscow that was rebuilt). To be authentic there should also be the smell of linseed oil when you open the box, which ours does. Our box also came with a certificate noting the maker's name.

Because of the celebration, there was high security around town. Some areas were blocked and armed guards were stationed here and there. We didn't feel threatened at all; actually, probably more safe.

The two above photos and one below are three exterior shots of the Church of Elijah the Prophet located in the center of town. Church-ware, fur, and precious stone merchants Vonifatiy and Ioannikiy Skripin built it in the mid-1700s for the community. It is still in almost perfect condition from that time. See beautiful tile work at the entrance.

Inside you see the most colorful wall and vaulted-ceiling frescoes. Remember, statues in the Russian Orthodox Church are forbidden, as they are considered idols. These glorious icons, however, represent the stories of the Bible for non-reading parishioners in olden times. Drop-dead gorgeous! It was hard to chose the best of my photos to place here. Every aspect was stunning.

 

 

We couldn't enter any other churches today, but there were many about town. Hope I have them identified correctly.

The first is the Feodorovskaya Church built in the 1680s. It is named for the Feodorovskaya Icon of the Mother of God, also known as Our Lady of Saint Theodore or the Black Virgin Mary of Russia (not black as in African peoples, but blackened due to time and wear). She is the patron icon of the Romanov family and one of the most venerated in the Upper Volga region. (Long story about this icon, but if you want to read it, go here:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Feodorovskaya_Icon_of_the_Mother_of_God.)

This is the Church of Annunciation of the Blessed Virgin, opened 1688. It took me quite a while to identify this one, but it has very distinctively shaped "onion" domes.

The Assumption Cathedral with its gilded onion domes is a functioning church (so many are not). The original cathedral was blown up by the Soviets in 1937. This replacement was completed in 2005, but still has that ancient traditional look.

Again, lots of mosaic and tile work, reminiscent of North Africa. 

I could not identify this one. Very different than the others, but still beautiful. And there were yet more churches, not seen here.

Throughout our "church" walk we saw areas where the city celebration would be in high gear later in the day.

Russia 2019 (30) UGLICH - Downtown & Shopping

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I know we have had a respite from Russia, but back on track now. This is the last entry for Uglich, our first little town along the Volga.

After the home visit, we bussed back to downtown. Along the way utility poles and wires reminded us of the cobweb electrical system in Thailand, but not quite as bad.

We saw mixed local housing. The first photo is the tallest apartment building we noticed. Pretty short after seeing all the high-rises in Moscow.

And a more traditional home.

Some in bad condition. Hopefully no one living here.

Back in the small downtown, we saw City Hall (the big blue building) among other shops and businesses.

In the 1940s, a women's watchmaking manufacturer was founded in Stalingrad. In 1956 the company changed its name to Chaika (meaning seagull). That honors of the call-name of Russia's first female cosmonaut Valentina Tereshkova. Descendants of the workers of that company relaunched their own company in Uglich under the name of Colibrica Design Atelier. You can buy some Chaika watch styles on Etsy at:
https://www.etsy.com/market/uglich_watch_factory

Watchmaking is still a big profession here and there are several watch and clock stores in downtown. However, in one of our on-board lectures on souvenir buying, they advised this probably was not the best place to buy a watch unless you know what to look for.

 

On a nearby stage this gal was striking various poses, not singing or dancing, just posing??? Not getting much attention though.

There was also a clever pop-up coffee cafe set up in the back of a van. It was getting attention from coffee-craving Americans.

To get back to the ship, we browsed down this long block of outdoor shopping stalls. Again, our ship guides said to beware. There were all the typical items such as lacquer-ware, amber, and Russian symbols, clothes, stacked dolls, and memorabilia.

I loved this felt shop. However, between the lecture warnings, it being our first real shopping opportunity, and my yen to price compare, we didn't purchase anything today.

We walked through a greenway on our way back to the ship. We saw dandelions everywhere. I asked our guide about them and he said Russians love dandelions because of their luscious gold color. They are one of the first flowers to pop up in spring and help to brighten some otherwise overcast days. They don't cut them down or wage war against them like Americans do.
We also passed by a little babushka gramma selling bunches of lily of the valley flowers. Mike knows they are one of my faves and bought a bunch for me.

As we boarded the ship, one of the crew must have noticed this. About five minutes after we got back to our cabin there was a knock on the door and they supplied us with a little vase for the flowers. That's how attentive this crew was. Such a sweet gesture.

By the way there were always little fun surprises popping up along the journey. Today when we returned from sightseeing, we were offered a glass of champagne. I'm a very happy camper here.

DETROIT, MICHIGAN 2019 - Day Trip (Part 2)

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After Belle Isle we checked into the Crown Plaza Hotel in downtown Detroit. This was the spectacular view as we walked through the door, overlooking the waterfront and Detroit River. That's Windsor, Canada across the river. Spent most of my waking hours in the room in that chair looking out onto the horizon.

Here's looking at our hotel from the riverside. Our room was on the 17th floor of the center "column." The triangle-shaped jutting windows gave a fabulous 180-degree view.

We could see all the way from the Ren-Cen (discussed on previous blog entry) on the left to Hart Plaza to the old Veteran's Memorial Building (white), now owned by the United Auto Works Union.

Continuing round, was what we knew as Cobo Hall for 59 years. It is known as the TCF (financial) Center as of early 2019.  It is a 723,000 square foot facility that recently received a huge renovation. Originally it housed an arena for concerts and Detroit Piston basketball games. In the old days, I saw Stevie Wonder, the Rolling Stones, and Elvis Presley here. Today it is a convention center and exhibit space for trade shows.

The original name honored former Detroit Mayor Albert Cobo. Looking back, some of the mayor's policies were racist. With the reboot and renewal of Detroit Motor City, it was appropriate to make a name change here.

After dropping off our bags we went for a stroll along the riverside walkway. On the way we saw "The Fist," a monument to boxer Joe Lewis. It was commissioned by Sports Illustrated Magazine in 1986 and is suspended on a 24-foot pyramidal support. It represents the power of the punch, inside and outside the ring, and Lewis' fight for racial justice.

We walked through Hart Plaza, named for late Senator Phil Hart. It is a gathering place and location of summer food and cultural festivals and has a capacity of 40,000. The silver ring is a fountain which flows colorful waters in warmer weather.

On the waterfront side of the plaza is a sculpture honoring the Underground Railroad, which made its way from the South to Detroit and on through to Canada.

Along the river we saw a freighter and an old style riverboat (replica). Also, a few speed boats zipping along the clear waters.

After strolling a mile or so, we headed into the city a few blocks from the river. We stopped at Sweetwater Tavern to wet our whistles. This building dates back to the mid-1800s and the tavern has received awards for their chicken wings. We didn't try them, but enjoyed a couple of cocktails while we chatted with the diverse customers.

We saw reproductions of aqua-green vintage buses. As a kid Mike took busses just like this from his home in the suburban city of Wayne to downtown Detroit. It was 35 cents for the 23-mile ride along Michigan Avenue. He and friends would come into the city to see the latest films in fabulously decorated theaters like the Fox, and fantasize about going to the burlesque shows.

And then there is the Detroit People Mover, which began operating in 1987. This is an almost 3-mile elevated monorail ride circling downtown Detroit with 13 stops at prominent locations. It is only 75 cents to board, but we were in walking mode. Read about the history and routes here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Detroit_People_Mover.

Among other landmarks, we saw the Old Wayne County Building. Completed in 1902 for $1.6 million, it operated as the county courthouse. The architectural style is Beaux Arts Classicism. Its base is comprised of pink granite and the ornamental tower is 247-feet high. It recently experienced a $7 million renovation (lighting, window restoration, exterior masonry) and the owners are looking for tenants.
This is the distinctive Ally (financial) Detroit Center building. It was completed in 1993 in a postmodern architectural design, with Flemish influence in its four "towers" walls. There are offices, restaurants, and retail, as well as a gym and one of our favorite food purveyors, Plum Market.

In the financial district, we walked through the landmark Guardian Building skyscraper. The 36-story structure was completed in 1929 and is capped with two spires (one four additional stories tall). It recently went through an award-winning restoration. The mosaic tile decor is an unusual combination of Southwest Native American and art deco. Currently it houses the main offices for Wayne County. Honestly, it is just drop-dead gorgeous. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guardian_Building

 

We headed to our hotel as sunset closed in. The Ambassador Bridge to Canada is in the background.

After a non-memorable dinner at the hotel, we spent much of the evening looking out over the city and river. Ever changing lights of vehicle traffic. Fascinating. Hypnotizing. Like watching a bonfire. Here's the Ren-Cen. Bright light area is the border entrance to the tunnel that travels under the river to Canada.

Hart Plaza to the right, then UAW-Ford National Programs Center (white building that was originally the Veterans Memorial Building), riverboat (two red stacks), and People Mover. Windsor, Canada lies across the Detroit River.

Here's the nighttime view of the TCF Center.

"Jumbotron" mounted on the parking lot of the TCF Center. Huge. Impressive. Compare the size of the cars with the display.

We sure enjoyed our quick trip and found inspiration to return and check out some more areas of this fair city being reimagined into a second vibrant life.