28 December 2019

Russia 2019 (31) YAROSLAVL - 1,009th Birthday

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Yarosloval is a World Heritage UNESCO city of 600,000. This quaint town is advertised as one of most significant and picturesque ports along the Volga River. Upon arrival we hiked up a tall-ish staircase from portside to the Volzhskaya Embankment (or bluff).
Then we walked down this lovely park path of linden trees and a monument to local poet Nikolay Nekrasov.
Tulips were in full bloom (along with the lilacs).
This was a bronze "scroll" that depicts the layout of the town. It was probably 5x5 feet and rested atop a large boulder. You can see the Volga at top right, the outline of the main city on the bluff, and the lookout onto the scenic lowlands where the compass is. 
Here's more of a street sign needed for directions. The city is actually at a point where the Kotorosl River enters into the Volga River.
This shows the lowland area below the bluff. This particular weekend the town was celebrating its 1,009th birthday. From this vantage we saw a garden art piece documenting the event. (Just think, the USA is only 243 years old this year!!)
One of our first stops was the lacquer-ware market. We were advised this WAS a reputable place to purchase items. There were all shapes, sizes, and colorfully painted designs. The "engagement ring" or maybe bracelet motif (center top) was certainly interesting. These were probably six inches in diameter. 
The first known boxes started with icons for the design. Authentic pieces are paper mâché based with up to 50 layers of paint. They take up to six weeks to make and basically come from only four Russian villages--Fedoskino (women and fairy tales), Palekh (fairy tales), Kohlui (landscapes and famous buildings), and Mstera (simpler designs).

Ours was made in Kholui. We choose a small box (2x2 inches) depicting Christ the Savior Church (the big one we had seen in Moscow that was rebuilt). To be authentic there should also be the smell of linseed oil when you open the box, which ours does. Our box also came with a certificate noting the maker's name.
Because of the celebration, there was high security around town. Some areas were blocked and armed guards were stationed here and there. We didn't feel threatened at all; actually, probably more safe.


The two above photos and one below are three exterior shots of the Church of Elijah the Prophet located in the center of town. Church-ware, fur, and precious stone merchants Vonifatiy and Ioannikiy Skripin built it in the mid-1700s for the community. It is still in almost perfect condition from that time. See beautiful tile work at the entrance.
Inside you see the most colorful wall and vaulted-ceiling frescoes. Remember, statues in the Russian Orthodox Church are forbidden, as they are considered idols. These glorious icons, however, represent the stories of the Bible for non-reading parishioners in olden times. Drop-dead gorgeous! It was hard to chose the best of my photos to place here. Every aspect was stunning.








We couldn't enter any other churches today, but there were many about town. Hope I have them identified correctly.


The first is the Feodorovskaya Church built in the 1680s. It is named for the Feodorovskaya Icon of the Mother of God, also known as Our Lady of Saint Theodore or the Black Virgin Mary of Russia (not black as in African peoples, but blackened due to time and wear). She is the patron icon of the Romanov family and one of the most venerated in the Upper Volga region. (Long story about this icon, but if you want to read it, go here:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Feodorovskaya_Icon_of_the_Mother_of_God.)

This is the Church of Annunciation of the Blessed Virgin, opened 1688. It took me quite a while to identify this one, but it has very distinctively shaped "onion" domes.


The Assumption Cathedral with its gilded onion domes is a functioning church (so many are not). The original cathedral was blown up by the Soviets in 1937. This replacement was completed in 2005, but still has that ancient traditional look.





Again, lots of mosaic and tile work, reminiscent of North Africa. 

I could not identify this one. Very different than the others, but still beautiful. And there were yet more churches, not seen here.
Throughout our "church" walk we saw areas where the city celebration would be in high gear later in the day.



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If you have visited any of these places, we would love to hear your comments. Or send us recommendations of places we should not miss.