24 March 2020

Russia 2019 (38) KIZHI - Wood World One

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That evening and night we traversed through six more locks--one was the narrowest en route. Our ship was less than six inches from the wall on each side and I could easily touch it. All crew were on deck aided by thick rope lines hanging off the ship to minimize scraping between the lock wall and ship's hull.

Kizhi (pronounced Keeja) on the northern edge of Lake Onega (Europe's second largest lake) was our next port of call. Settlements are known to have existed here since the 15th century. Today it is an open-air, architectural museum and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The complex includes bell towers, a windmill, farmhouses, barns, mills, out-buildings, and two very unique, especially awesome churches.

This is my friend Jerolyn's favorite island in the world and she gave me a little book to read up on it. I can see why. The collection of buildings was relocated and reconstructed from the Karelian forest area (near the Finland border)Every building on the island is made completely of wood, except for nails fastening the domes and roof shingles.

This is a view of the two churches from the ship. The larger, 3-tiered Transfiguration Church (1714) has 22 domes. It is 37 meters (or 121 feet) tall. It is not heated so it is called the summer church. The smaller "winter" Church of the Intercession (rebuilt in current structure in 1764) has nine domes and is 32 meters (104 feet) tall.

The difference in wood colors (golden to silvery) shows how long the wood has been weathering. Right now they are refurbishing the taller church, so you can see the brand new wood is much lighter. Where the church on the right and the bell tower have been weathering for some time. Shingles are replace every 30-40 years.
It was blustery as we got off the boat. I think this is the first day I wore my heavy coat. Just ahead of us was our Captain and his 2nd grader son with their bikes. He had invited his young son on this cruise as a reward for doing so well on his final exams. He also has a 9-month old.
Here is a map of the island and its wood structures. The 80 "monuments" as they are called have been managed by three generations of one family for about 80 years. The major churches are to the right of the white anchor symbols where our boat was moored.
Here are the churches as we approach down the path. The closer we got the more awesome they were! Almost fairy-tale like. There is a car in this shot, but it was the only motor vehicle we saw on the island.
And a few more shots from different angles.
The weather was quite overcast most of the time or I'm sure the structures would have been even more beautiful.

This is the bell tower entrance to the bigger church, although we could not enter due to the refurbishment.
I guess I added so many photos of these churches because they were truly amazing and really not fathomable in one's mind unless you see them in person.

Our tour guide showed diagrams of the churches.
And displayed how the summer church was originally constructed. Even wood scaffolding was used during the process.
We entered the winter church and saw this display on the history of the churches and structures.
The interior was colorful with frescos and icons.
We were joined by clerics who chanted traditional songs.
Outside the church, even the graveyard had wood memorials.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kizhi_Pogost for more info on these churches.

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